Garnets Galore

January birthstone, February color story, eternal object of desire

If you were born in January (happy belated!), your birthstone is the garnet. This protective stone’s name comes from the Latin granatus, meaning “pomegranate.” The stone resembles the fruit’s abundant seeds, and this symbolic connection and vibrant color make it one of the sexiest, and most underrated, birthstones.

Garnets are semi-precious, but wholly desirable. Just look at this late 17th century Polish eagle brooch commissioned by King Władysław IV for his Queen, Cecilia Renata of Austria, featuring a large garnet at the center.

I was lucky to see this brooch on display at the Louvre in 2023. Thankfully, it was not stolen in the 2025 robbery.

A semi-precious birthstone offers the luxury of scale, both in the size of the stones and the size of your collection. What a blessing to really get to enjoy your birthstone…many garnets feel big enough to dive right in, like this large cabochon which feels like a crystal ball:

Victorian garnet cabochon bracelet with fittings to be worn as brooch ($19,500)

On the other end of the scale, the pomegranate seed resemblance is especially apparent in Victorian era jewels featuring Bohemian (pyrope) garnets, usually cut small and mounted in clusters:

Bohemian garnet bracelets in “Woman Reading by a Paper-Bell Shade” by Henry Robert Morland (1766), Bohemian garnet necklace (sold), Bohemian garnet necklace & earring demi parure ($900)

Garnets measure 6.5 - 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale (out of 10, the benchmark set by diamond) and have a refractive index of 1.7 - 1.88 (compared to 2.42 for diamond)

Metaphysically, garnets have long been associated with creativity, love, and devotion. From an 1870 Tiffany & Co pamphlet on birthstones:

My favorite way to serve garnets is flat cut and foil backed, as in Georgian era pieces. This method maximizes the color payoff while also creating a lacy effect when worn. SWOON.

L: Part of antique garnet parure ($15,000), antique garnet necklace ($13,500), portrait of a lady wearing flat cut garnet earrings & choker

Garnets may be January’s stone, but I reach for them year-round, especially in February when I’m seeing red for a romantic Valentine’s Day and an auspicious Chinese New Year.

Garnets Galore! Cabochon cufflinks ($1,600), Cabochon bracelet ($19,500), Georgian garnet choker on ribbon ($52,000), Flat cut garnet parure ($15,000)

They play so well with diamonds, so I’ve included some complementary jewels inspired by Margot Robbie’s romantic Wuthering Heights press tour looks by Andrew Mukamal which I feel really capture the spirit of the season. Or at least I am taking notes for my Valentine’s Day look!

Antique diamond cross pendant ($18,500), diamond heart locket ($19,500), Taj Mahal diamond (last sold for $8.8M at Christie’s)

I love the juicy burgundy of classic almandine & pyrope garnets, but there are many of other garnet types and associated shades if that’s not your glass of wine. Have you heard of mandarin (spessartite) or demantoid garnets? We can discuss another time…those colors deserve their own stories!